Menavali Ghat

Menavali was the estate of Nana Phadnavis, the administrator who effectively ran the Maratha confederacy from Pune in the late eighteenth century. He built the wada, the ghat and the temples here as a retreat away from the politics of the capital.

The result is an unusually complete survival: the riverfront, the religious buildings and the residence still standing together as one designed group, rather than a single restored monument surrounded by later town.

The ghat. Wide stone steps running the length of the riverfront down to the Krishna. Early morning, with mist on the water and the temples reflected in it, is when this is at its best.

The Meneshwar temple. Hemadpanti in style, with a large bell in the courtyard - Portuguese in origin, brought here from Vasai after the Maratha campaign of 1739, and one of the more unexpected objects in rural Maharashtra.

The Vishnu temple. The second of the pair, smaller, with stone carving worth slowing down for.

The wada. Nana Phadnavis's residence, still standing behind the ghat, with wooden pillars and courtyards. It is privately held and access depends on whether it is open on the day - treat the interior as a bonus rather than the reason for the trip.

The ghat has stood in for a generic Indian riverside town in several Hindi films - most recognisably Swades and Gangaajal - which is why it feels familiar to a lot of first-time visitors who cannot place it.

Local guides will point out specific spots used in particular scenes. It is a pleasant twenty minutes if you know the films and completely skippable if you do not.

There is no formal ticket office or visitor centre. Parking is informal, near the approach to the ghat. Facilities are minimal - carry water.

The temples are active and the ghat is used by the village. Remove footwear before entering the temples, dress modestly, and ask before photographing people - particularly anyone bathing or performing rituals.

Do not ring the bell for a photograph, and do not climb on the temple structures. This is a living site rather than a ruin, and it is in good condition precisely because it has not been treated as a backdrop.

Menavali sits naturally between the temples in Wai town and Dhom Dam, so the three make a comfortable half day - see the one-day itinerary for the full route.

If you want to be here for the light rather than driving in from Pune for the middle of the day, our villa is about ten minutes away.